Introduction

I’ve recently returned from a one year journey around the world.

The biggest year of my life has passed by in a blink and now I’m back home, adrift in its memories, lessons, thoughts and reflections. It’s a bit overwhelming, but I’ve been asked more than once to share some of this, so here I’ll do my best to convey what I’ve taken from it all.

In the future, there maybe more to come. There certainly is so much more to tell! In the meantime, I hope this will suffice as a taste of my adventures and a little heartfelt thanks.

It All Began a Bit Like This





















Over a year ago I had this really cool job making a movie with the most wild and talented collection of artists from all over the world. These guys are good! And that job rocked. But it WAS all encompassing and the hours were long and the schedule was pretty intense. Add in that at this point I’d been living in one place for longer than I’d previously done in my entire adult life. Like a sailor or spaceman, I was beginning to find the world I lived in to be just too small! So when the project faced completion and the question of what came next arose, a pair of slightly itchy feet led me to the kind of irrational and impulsive (brilliant???) decision-making that I seem to thrive at. Enter an intriguing and worldly girl who drops in from the sky, as she passes through my city on her own trip around the globe! Now I’d met people that had done these types of trips before and I’d occasionally wanted it for myself, but I’d never really given this any kind of serious thought. So, when we hit it off and this lovely girl offered me an opportunity to join her on HER trip (in a lilting British accent of course), I didn’t really give that any serious thought either. It was a no-brainer! So I agreed.

HA! An amazing and half-baked decision that I would never live to regret. Within the month I bought a ticket good for a year and promising to bring me anywhere my fool-heart desired, under its 27,000 consecutive mile limitations. In the beginning I coordinated with said girl. In the end, I was closing my eyes and using my finger to find arbitrary dots on a map. No place sounded less than amazing, so why not? Within the following weeks, I wrapped up at work, I got my affairs in order (to the best that I order affairs), and then I set off. Because of so many logistics, the girl left the country a good deal ahead of me, but I gave her my number so we could meet up later...

As it turned out, I wouldn’t see her again until we caught up over lunch. In London. 11 months after that!

This is just one example of why I know this: When it comes to planning, I’m a master! I think it’s important for one to recognize their strengths. And this is an incredible asset which I possess, so I’m happy. These skills would surely come in handy on my ensuing adventures!

Thank You.

Along my way I met literally hundreds of people from all over the world who saw fit to share something big or small with me. Sometimes it was simply a good conversation, sometimes a wonderful home where I could stay. It’s extremely heartwarming to me to know of all the goodness that’s out there and I cannot possibly say enough to justly express it. All I can say is that it’s impossible to talk about my trip without recognizing the people who I shared it with. Without them there would be nothing much to talk about. It was them who compelled me to go on, enriched my experience, and made it all the more meaningful. It certainly wouldn’t have been the same without them and I most sincerely thank them all!

To the Sikh and to the scientist, the pro-soccer player and the river punter. To the concert pianist and the rally car racer, the mathe-mechanic, the architect, and the movie maker. To my Kiwi Christmas family. To the photographer, the teachers, and the perpetual students alike. To the journalist and the lovely movie critic, to the Russians in Egypt and the Swedish in Thailand. To the girls from Portland, one and all. To my old friends and classmates, discovered anew. To the Swiss dudes, the New Orleans tour guide, the engineer, the accountant and his entire flat, the archeologist, the barrister, the philosopher, and to the London copper. To the youth pastor and his wife. To the girl on the boat that time. To the nurse and his family in Flagstaff, AZ, the nanny in Cali, and the German translator in Northern Italy. To the maker of quiche, who was never once a pain in my ass! To the little babushka in Lisbon who ran the hostel on the hill, to all of the lost and found souls I encountered en route, and to the professional travelers who inspired my path. To all of you couch-surfers out there, official and unofficial. Thank you!

You shared your homes, your hearts, your families and friends, your inspirations and ambitions, your meals and celebrations, your beds, sofas, futons, cots, hammocks and floors with me. I’ve never felt so welcome as I often did with you. You showed me your compassion and your generosity. Many of you started out as complete strangers and it’s through your openness that I may find you now as my dear friends. You’re in my stories and my experiences of this year. I’ve taken more from you than you’d imagine and all I can promise in return is it won’t be soon forgotten. I have you in mind as I’m passing this on!

Some Stuff to Appreciate

Extravagant lattes and street-corner conveniences aside, I’m coming to truly appreciate some things about my life at home. Following my experiences, I’m beginning to note that which I often overlooked. The drinkable water which comes right from my tap, utensils such as forks and knives, or even the toilet paper with which I wipe my ass, have ALL taken on a meaning they hadn’t had before! Sure, they mean I’m at home in a life of modernity and convenience, but they also mean I’m blessed. These small things represent something greater. They embody a life in which I’m lucky and free. One in which I go where I like, express what I wish, choose what I eat, and worship or denounce whichever god or monster I fancy. And these are all privileges that didn’t have to be.

I was extremely fortunate, to embark upon the world speaking English and holding a western passport. I never asked for permission to visit any of the places I did. At most I might have filled out a form and purchased a visa. But I can’t say the same for many I met. The friends I made in other countries, the same ones who showed me their uncompromising hospitality, may not ever get the opportunity to visit my home. Depending on where they’re from, the citizenship they hold, the lottery which takes place, and the subsequent decision of governmental departments, they may or may not be granted admittance to my country or others around the world. Until I’d found these friends, I'd never had reason to think about my own freedom.

And what of the “language barrier?” Speaking English, I found this barrier to be more often than not, simply an obstacle. Of course not everyone spoke English. But as a general rule, those I encountered spoke a hell-of-a-lot more of my language than I did of theirs! None of this is something to be proud of or sorry for. It just is. And it’s based on something as arbitrary as the place I was lucky enough to be brought up. Fortuity is relative, but I am lucky by any standards. The language I speak and the country in which I live WERE my ticket to the rest of the world. Before I had been told these things and now I know them to be true.

The Things We Lose

This year has undoubtedly been one of the most significant in my life. I met so many, experienced so much, and took from it all I could. It has been a defining one for a lot of people. Rather unfortunately, while I happened to gain, others were losing. I know too many friends that faced the loss of a parent this year. Each one makes me so profoundly sad. I cannot imagine a much greater loss in one’s life and while it may be inevitable, at this stage it still seems so untimely and that much more tragic. I lost my father when I was in college. It’s been over eleven years now and it shocks me to realize that number. He and I were close and with him went my greatest guide through life and my most loyal friend. And yet, in all of the time that’s past, the significance of that loss still hasn’t fully occurred to me. A small bit is realized with each passing milestone and notable event . The gap it has left in my life and in my heart will never be filled. What I have come to do is to maintain that space and even cherish it. This is the place in which I safely keep my fondest memories, my greatest hopes, and my favorite dreams. Now I appreciate my family like I never have before. I live each day to make them proud and to share their love. I’m certain they know this, but it still bears repeating. And while I can’t say anything to those that lost to change a thing at all, I'd like to tell them this: I think of you more than you realize, because you remind me, not just of the things I’ve lost, but of all that I still have.

Tallies Are In!

Now, for those into tallies, I have something for you. 368 days, five continents, three oceans, 18 countries, 12 states, 55,295 miles (give or take a few!), one van, and six pairs of shoes later I‘ve returned home to Portland, Oregon, USA. I flew on 18 flights to get here. I traveled by bus, train, elephant, camel, subway, taxi, trolley, tuk tuk, rickshaw, and rode in one “Vanette of Power.” I went by motorbike, motorboat, long-tailed boat, short-tailed boat, felucca, kayak, bicycle and sometimes of course on foot. I drove 8392 miles back and forth across the United States in my trusty Honda Civic, accompanied by my even trustier black Labrador.

Among the highlights of my trip, I stood on the peaks of Northern New Zealand without my pants on, hiked the highest summit in Indo-China, and attended a Lao wedding! I walked the 116 degree deserts of Egypt in the middle of June, cursing my lack of foresight and overall poor planning, but I also hiked and swam the cliff-side coasts of the Italian Riviera at the perfect time of year. I rode a bicycle in the predawn hours to the temples at Angkor Wat and I was standing atop Mt. Sinai in Egypt when I caught my most enchanting sunrise. I had a magical bus ride into the north of Laos, guided by a thousand fireflies and the midnight moon. I rode a motorbike through the mountains of northern Thailand on my way to see Chang Mai. I walked among 2000 year old trees in the Kauri Forest and got lost in the jungles of Malaysia (twice!). I swam the chilly October rivers of Sedona with my dog on lazy afternoons. I silently noted my 30th birthday passing in the company of strangers, in Northern Vietnam, and I wouldn’t have had it any other way! I hiked through the Grand Canyon, from rim to rim. I learned the Arabic numbers and Thank You and Hello in about a dozen languages and then I promptly forgot it all upon exiting each country. For the better part of a year I lost complete track of what day it was and I hardly ever knew the time. I went to the movies and sampled the ice cream throughout the world. That was good! I discovered my favorite restaurant on the island of Koh Lanta, but I also had an exceptionally noteworthy piece of lasagna in Monterosso al Mare!


Not that it was all Thai iced teas and botanical gardens! There were those moments less than stellar… I got bed bugs. Twice. There were fire ants AND sand flies. I got leeches in my shoes. I chipped my tooth, got two foot infections, three bouts of incapacitating stomach illnesses, lost one toenail, passed out on a kayak (most probably as a result of heatstroke), and fell off of two motorbikes on separate occasions, once consequently but unremarkably visiting a Vietnamese hospital. I had a run-in with a pickpocket on a train in Italy and I was stopped and questioned by the Egyptian police. Monkeys bullied me into giving over my loaf of bread and I was scammed trying to walk across the border from Thailand into Cambodia. Unsurprisingly my luggage took an independent detour on it’s way back across the Atlantic and England gave me one hell of a time coming into Heathrow once it was all said and done! I also got a sunburn in New Zealand once.

All things considered though, it was a truly grand adventure! I like to think I tried nearly everything arrived upon and looked beyond each bend. I ate the buffalo, the bugs, the lizards, the frogs and the fish. I only said no to dog meat! I was trekking, kayaking, swimming, camping, hitch-hiking, snorkeling, surfing, canyoning, scuba diving, ice climbing, rock climbing, zip-lining, abseiling and jumping off of the cliffs of the world. In fact, for better or for worse, the only opportunities passed upon were smoking opium with a local hill tribe, having a snake killed in order to drink it’s blood and eat it‘s heart, shooting an AK-47, and marrying the tailor’s daughter in Hoi An! And should the suits I had made hold up, I may reconsider that last decision...


(*Continue on through November entries for some photos.)

Introduction to Photos



The posts to follow represent a collection of my favorite photos from my journey. These are just a few of the wonderful faces and places I encountered during this year away. I've narrowed it down from literally thousands to this particular group of images. I feel the pictures here best exemplify my experience, recalling the tone and the memory of being in these very moments. I've followed each image with just a bit about the photo and where it was taken.

Alternatively, here's a link to them in a slide show form. You can find the full screen button on the bottom right.
Slideshow!

And should you be a true glutton for vacation picture torment, here's a link to MANY more photos of my trip.
Shitload more photos!

I hope you enjoy them!

Riding Back From School


Riding Back From School, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

My friends and I were riding motorbikes back from an afternoon outing. Along our way, we came across what must have been hundreds of Vietnamese students riding bicycles home from school. This boy turned around to ride alongside us and say hello. I was lucky to snap this great shot with my camera propped on the handlebars of my moving motorbike. -Hoi An, Vietnam

Hanoi Traffic


Hanoi Traffic, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Although not quite in focus, I love this image of a man and his boy whizzing through the city traffic. It never ceased to fascinate me, watching the multitude of bikes heading off in all directions. -Hanoi, Vietnam

Holy Feet


Holy Feet, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A monk performs his afternoon prayers. -Hue, Vietnam

Fun With Bike Tires


Fun With Bike Tires, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

The children throughout Laos had such character built into every one of their expressions. One boy carries his baby brother on his back, while the other holds an old bike tire as a toy. -Muang Sing, Laos

Shot in the Dark


Shot in the Dark, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

This child lived in a small Lao village I spent a night in. Initially all of the children were hesitant to approach, but under the cover of darkness, they grew a bit bolder. Eventually they were delighting in both my camera and my flashlight! The children had me take dozens of photos of each of them and they just loved when I would show them their images. -Muang Sing, Laos

Walking on Water


Walking on Water, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A young monk walks through town. -Muang Sing, Laos

Portrait at Abu Simbel


Portrait at Abu Simbel, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

This gentleman sat outside the temples at Abu Simbel and was happy to let me take his photo. It made for one of my favorite portraits. -Abu Simbel, Egypt

Losing His Pants


Losing His Pants, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

This little boy jumped up on the post for me to take his portrait, nearly losing his pants in the process! -Muang Sing, Laos

Over-sized Bike


Over-sized Bike, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

I found these kids and their over-sized bicycle after taking a detour out of the temples one afternoon. -Angkor, Cambodia

Scott and Amanda


Scott and Amanda, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Scott and Amanda were among my first Couchsurfing hosts on my road trip across the United States. They were also among the kindest and most comfortable hosts I've come to find anywhere. I enjoyed their company so much, I dropped back in for a second visit on my return trip home! -Flagstaff, Arizona USA

CS Kirin


CS Kirin, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Kirin was good enough to host me in Auckland and he saw to it that I kicked off this trip right. When I passed back through town, he hosted me again. Knowledgeable and well versed in travel and in life, Kirin is one of the true gentlemen of the world! -Auckland, New Zealand

Swiss Dudes


Swiss Dudes, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

This was something of a reunion for us. I originally met the Swiss dudes, Glen and Michael diving off of the island of Koh Tao. Little did I know then, I'd run into these guys weeks later, on the streets of Bangkok. Many months after that, Glen and his girlfriend would host me in their home in Switzerland! -Bangkok, Thailand

Couch Surfer Carsten


Couch Surfer Carsten, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

One of The Great Hosts, Carsten welcomed me into his home in Milan. I had such a wonderful experience, I returned weeks later with my mother to share some of Italy with her! -Milan, Italy

Two Arabs


Two Arabs, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A portrait of two Egyptians on my trip up the Nile. -North of Aswan, Egypt

Kevin and Balloons


Kevin and Balloons, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

My housemate from back in Portland, Kevin joined me for the road trip home. Here we are in Albuquerque enjoying the International Balloon Fiesta. -Albuquerque, New Mexico USA

Mount Sinai Sunrise


Mount Sinai Sunrise, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A portrait of a man atop Mount Sinai during sunrise. -Mount Sinai, Egypt

Midnight Monk


Midnight Monk, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A monk stands at a midnight Buddhist celebration. We happened upon the festivities, which led to our participating in a singing circle with the locals until well past bedtime! -Nong Khiaw, Laos

DEFENSE


DEFENSE, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

One of the truer cultural experiences I had crossing the U.S. was attending a Friday Night Football game between two of the local high schools. I like this shot for its shadows, composition, and the discarded DEFENSE sign that labels it. -San Antonio, Texas USA

Old Man and Child


Old Man and Child, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A local man carries a young boy on his back. I encountered these two in the small village I was hiking through. We spent one night here, where they fed us and gave us a bungalow in which to stay. -Muang Sing, Laos

Portrait of Costello


Portrait of Costello, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A portrait of Costello, as we affectionately referred to him. Abbott and Costello were our felucca captains on a trip up the Nile. Neither spoke a word of English. -North of Aswan, Egypt

Man and His Donkey


Man and His Donkey, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

This man came riding by on donkey as we were docked on the side of the river. He stood and rested against his mule for sometime before heading on his way. -Nile River, Egypt

Monkey Waits


Monkey Waits, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Monkey waits patiently for me to catch up on our hike through the woods. -Flagstaff, Arizona USA

Chilly October Waters


Chilly October Waters, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Monk and I take advantage of the beautiful day with a dip in chilly, October waters. -Sedona, Arizona USA

Tranquil on the Road


Tranquil on the Road, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

One of many tranquil rests on our way across country. -Eastern California USA

Boys Walk Buffalo


Boys Walk Buffalo, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

These boys were walking a buffalo down the road. I like how the buffalo tries to elude the frame. -Muang Sing, Laos

Floating Market


Floating Market, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

It was a perfectly somber day on the Mekong River. We rented a boat to visit the floating market. -Mekong Delta, Vietnam

Portrait at Villa Sentosa


Portrait at Villa Sentosa, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Portrait of the man at Villa Sentosa. Generations of his family have lived in this lovely 1920's traditional Malay home. -Melaka, Malaysia

My Malaysian Family


My Malaysian Family, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Here I am enjoying a meal with my new Malaysian family. Cris would become my travel buddy and good friend over the weeks to come, Chin Yap would welcome me again and again into his life and his many cities, proving to be both great friend and fine connoisseur of Southeast Asian cuisine, while Jo and daughter Joeanna would generously invite me into their home in Kuala Lumpur. -Melaka, Malaysia

Dario and John


Dario and John, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Dario and John were two Americans I befriended on a felucca ride through Egypt. We shared enlightening conversation and once-in-a-lifetime experiences together. This photo was taken the night before we all parted ways. -Luxor, Egypt

Lao Wedding Talk


Lao Wedding Talk, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Here Richard and Laura, two British I met, enjoy a conversation with one of my favorite Lao characters! This was taken at the amazing wedding we were all invited to attend. -Muang Sing, Laos

Ja-Wa Listens


Ja-Wa Listens, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

One of the greatest kids I've had the privilege of meeting! Ja-Wa lived in a small village with his grandfather. Both of his parents had died sometime ago. He'd picked up a surprising amount of English from the tourists he'd encountered and he loved listening to our I-pods! -Outside of Pai, Thailand

Mark the Canadian Vagabond


Mark the Canadian Vagabond, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Mark, Canadian vagabond and fellow Couchsurfer lounges in the sun of a perfect day. He'll soon accompany me on my drive from Flagstaff to Albuquerque. -Sedona, Arizona USA

Joeanna Stands Tall


Joeanna Stands Tall, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

I befriended Joeanna and her mother, Jo in Melaka. We all celebrated a wonderful Chinese New Year together and they later hosted me at their home in Kuala Lumpur. -Melaka, Malaysia

Herwig Versus the Wind


Herwig Versus the Wind, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Herwig stands against the wind. -Otago Peninsula, New Zealand

Awaiting the Show


Awaiting the Show, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Children await the show. -Singapore Zoo, Singapore

Pork-On-Wheels


Pork-On-Wheels, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

I caught this shot out the window of a moving van. I had to get the picture when we realized this man was transporting multiple, live pigs in the basket on the back of his bike. -Hanoi, Vietnam

Baskets For Sale


Baskets For Sale, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A man sells baskets off of his bicycle. -Hanoi, Vietnam

Chinese Lanterns


Chinese Lanterns, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

This was taken in a Buddhist temple outside of town. I loved the Chinese lanterns. -Penang, Malaysia

Man, Cigarette, Bicycle


Man, Cigarette, Bicycle, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

This was a random capture of a guy as he passed me on his bike. I just love this character, with his cigarette hanging from his mouth. -Hoi An, Vietnam

Deep Undercover


Deep Undercover, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A classic shot! Though I suspect this man was not really FBI. He didn't even know what the FBI was. Unless of course he was just deep undercover... -Muang Sing, Laos

Bedouin and His Camel


Bedouin and His Camel, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A portrait of a Bedouin and his camel. -Giza, Egypt

Waiting on His Boat


Waiting on His Boat, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

A man stands on his boat waiting. -Hoi An, Vietnam

Camel Procession


Camel Procession, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

I really came to appreciate the camels in Egypt. They're truly majestic looking animals. -Sinai, Egypt

Portrait in Pajamas


Portrait in Pajamas, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

Portrait of a man in his pajamas. -Hanoi, Vietnam

Fresh Bread


Fresh Bread, originally uploaded by mhamberger.

I really like this shot of a woman selling delicious bread right from her bicycle. -Hanoi, Vietnam